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Sea Island Cotton of Barbados:

A Rare and Luxurious Gem

While looking into materials to incorporate into my work I stumbled across the finest of them all- Gossypium Barbadense, better known as Sea Island Cotton.

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Barbados' heritage

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It is important to me that my designs have meaning and a connection to Barbados in some way.

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Sea Island cotton is like no other I have worked with. Like silk to the touch, it looks and feels luxurious. It also holds a significant place in the history of the island.

 

 Additionally, it is extremely rare.

Sea Island Cotton ripe for harvesting, Newton, Barbados

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Newton, Barbados

The Origins 

Gossypium barbadense has a long and complex history, and accounts of its origins and spread throughout the Caribbean are not always consistent.

Historical research by anthropologist Jerome Handler  documents the introduction of cotton, identified as Gossypium barbadense, from Guiana in 1627. Cotton subsequently became an important commercial crop in early colonial Barbados, alongside tobacco, before sugar cane came to dominate the island's agricultural economy.

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The name Sea Island cotton comes from the Sea Islands off the coasts of Georgia and South Carolina in the United States, where distinctive varieties  were developed in the late eighteenth century.  

 

Barbados's tropical climate, sunshine and trade winds have helped make the island well suited to growing this exceptionally fine cotton.

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Exclusivity and allure

For a long time, Sea Island cotton has been synonymous with the most exquisite apparel, with Queen Victoria herself favouring Sea Island Cotton for her handkerchiefs.

 

The softness of the cotton was unmatched and its exclusivity made it all the more appealing.

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Authors like Ian Fleming had a penchant for Sea Island cotton while living in Jamaica and in his James Bond novels, the character is often described wearing clothing made from Sea Island Cotton, including his signature dress shirts.

 

This association with Bond has helped to further elevate the cotton's status as an opulent and aspirational material.

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The Riviera Polo was originally designed in the 1950s and was later tailored for Daniel Craig in Casino Royale. Made from 100% Sea Island Cotton sourced from the West Indies. Available at Sunspel.

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Exclusive Cottons of the Caribbean, St George, Barbados

 Lasting luxury

Barbados's Sea Island cotton industry is distinctive for its small-scale production and the care required to cultivate and harvest this exceptionally fine fibre. Cotton is still hand-picked, and its processing is carried out on a relatively small scale.

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Clothing made from Sea Island cotton is prized for its exceptional softness, smooth feel and breathability.  As consumers increasingly consider the longevity of the products they buy, Sea Island cotton offers an appealing alternative to disposable fashion.

 

Care is taken to make use of the whole cotton plant. After ginning, which separates the seeds from the cotton fibres, they can be used as animal feed, saved for planting the following season or processed to extract oil.

 

Barbadian Sea Island cotton is exported to specialist textile manufacturers, including those in Europe, where the infrastructure and expertise needed to process this fine fibre into yarn and fabric are available.

 

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Preserving SIC for the future

Over time, Barbados's cotton industry faced increasing economic pressures, including competition from cotton producers elsewhere. Production declined as the island's agricultural economy changed and other crops became more commercially important.

 

Today, Barbados's Sea Island cotton industry is supported by both local production and international efforts to protect the fibre's reputation.

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In the early 1930s the West Indian Sea Island Cotton Association International (WISICA) was founded to help safeguard the authenticity of genuine West Indian Sea Island cotton through certification and traceability.

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Here in Barbados, Exclusive Cottons of the Caribbean Inc. (ECCI), based in Groves, St George, operates the island's cotton ginnery, where the locally harvested cotton is processed before being exported to specialist textile manufacturers.

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Local designers and artisans also have a role to play in preserving this legacy. By incorporating Sea Island cotton into contemporary work, we can share its story with a new audience and celebrate its connection to Barbados.

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Only items made with genuine West Indian Sea Island Cotton will bear this stamp of approval

Designing With Sea Island Cotton 

I love to experiment with locally sourced plants such as Avocado, Sea Grape, Teak  leaves, Annatto and even Sargassum to give Sea Island Cotton a variety of beautiful earthy hues. 
 

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Studio photography of a person wearing a unique gold-toned necklace with scale-like links on a woven cord. The accessory creates a minimalist, bohemian aesthetic.

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